Paris is a city of culture, history, and food. You go to Paris and know you might be lucky to have everything you only imagine. You know the history of the school. You know the culture from class. And, as for the food, you have had it over there and only tried it over here in New York. And when you try it here, you do come close to a good meal of traditional food, in name only. It is rare to find a place where when you step inside you are actually stepping into a small private place in the heart of Paris. One that is known by friends and those who like the finest of French cuisine by a Chef who has the skill and ability to create a meal you will never forget. It does exist, but it is hard to find except now.
Bonjour tout LE CHÈNE.
A special Chef has created a true French restaurant that is true to the French cuisine. And she has done it on an old street in what was known as the West Village here in New York City. Located on Carmine Street you will find you have walked into a small establishment that reminds you of a typical place in Paris. You meet the host and see the bar that is ready to serve you as you enter.
A reservation is necessary, as you would find in Paris. Dinner is the time to be here and have a table waiting for you. Because once you are here then you are waiting for a dinner you never imagined. It is more than you expect, and worth the wait to have.
SIT AND WAIT TO SEE WHAT AWAITS YOU.
Once taken to your table, you are seated and presented with a menu for the evening. This is not a large menu. It is the menu of what will be created for the evening. It is a simple selection of courses to select from. It can be the entire menu, or maybe you will select a course or two. It is your choice. And what a choice to select from. Each item you read might make you consider what to have. Where do you start? What might be next? And what can you have to finish? It is all there even on this menu for the day.
You will receive a glass of water and ask what beverage you prefer. There are select cocktails for the evening, and even select wines. Naturally, you can receive the wine list, which is really a wine book of all types of wines, vintages, and prices. It is very in-depth, and the Sommelier wine steward will assist you with your selections. Depending on what you might select for dinner he can recommend a specific wine or two. Being there that night, I saw a couple select several types as they were doing their own tasting while they had their meal. That is how special it is here. For us, it was a bit easy as we knew that we would have fish for dinner, and the Sommelier recommended the wines that were on the evening list. In my case, we both selected the Riesling. They were both light and refreshing. The Reisling had a great flavor that was ideal for the dish to be selected.
Once this was placed, our waiter for the evening stopped by and helped us select. He was perfect in assisting us. He answered all the questions we might have. He presented special combinations. He made his own recommendations as to what he would have. That is always helpful since it represents what he would select for himself which truly recommends what you might wish to have.
When we placed the order for the evening, freshly made bread was brought to the table along with the wines selected. Sitting there we could see more people arriving. Le Chêne is not a large place, so you will notice when more visit to spend the evening dining here. This is the place to taste the best of the best.
FIRST COURSE, SOMETHING TO AMUSE THE MOUTH.
In French, it is known as Amuse-Bouches. It is the first of the concept of appetizers. It is smaller and has a fresh taste to hint at what will be expected. It’s a bite-sized, often creative dish meant to “amuse” the palate and get diners excited for what’s to come next.
For us, we did select two items. First was the Sweet Shrimp Tartelette. It was a tart filled with creme fraiche, sliced semi-raw fresh shrimp, and a touch of maple. It was a combination that was stimulating and could have been an ideal meal itself. It was at room temperature so it was easy to try and taste.
We also ordered Potato Rosti. This was a combination of Comte cheese and topped with a mushroom. It is made with grated crispy rosti potatoes then sauteed with butter and topped with Comte cheese. A slice of mushroom is added on top. Again, this is at room temperature and is used to whet the appetite for what will come next. And for us, it was even more than we expected.
This was the formal appetizer we both wanted to have. It was a classic French dish, but more so. It is the Foie Gras Lucullus. That says it all. True tradition here that is made in Paris, But here, at Le Chêne, it went beyond that.
It is a combination of wagyu beef tongue that is finely created into the appropriate shape. This is served with a toasted brioche, and then a small scoop of Sea Buckthorn berries that are minced into a spread that is soft to the touch but has a flavor you can only imagine. Once more, this could have been a meal unto itself. The flavor was inviting and interesting. The smooth touch added to the taste. You could take a slice and add it to the piece of the brioche. You could add a dab of the Sea Buckthorn for an added taste that is fruity and citrus. It could even be tart.
Having been to Paris for over 40 years, we always had Foie Gras when there. But here in Le Chêne, it went beyond that. Even having eaten in very select places in New York, this time the Foie Gras went to a new place. It was the best we ever had. We even said this alone could be the meal. Especially with a select glass of wine to go with it. Amazing was the word.
We could have stopped here, but the plates were finished and cleared and now it was time for the main course to arrive.
THE MAIN COURSE OF THE EVENING IN MANY WAYS.
With a fresh glass of wine recommended by our waiter, the courses came together.
First up was to have what was listed as the appetizer as the main course. That was because what was listed as such we decided would be something to have as an entree itself. It was special and unique. This was the Crab Thermidor.
The traditional style is with crab meat, shallots, garlic, and butter with other ingredients. But here, the mixture had something extra. The way it was created had a touch of flavor that cannot be described. It was cooked to perfection and placed in the crab itself. True, the legs were gone, but the body remained, And, in this case, it became the bowl that held the Thermidor within. This gave it a texture and flavor that was hard to find in a traditional method. It had a shape to itself in many ways. With a touch of finger lime, it added more. Ideal as a main course for one individual. And such it was.
We also ordered the fish of the evening., This was the Halibut with Scallop Quenelle. It was a fresh piece of halibut with the skin still on and a touch of caramelized onions. It was sauteed perfectly in a sauce vin jaune, a special and characteristic type of white wine that has the flavor of nuts, dry fruits, and spices. It is a complement to the fish itself. Along with this was the Scallops Quenelle. It is almost like a scallop dumpling that provides a difference to the dish. And with the sauce vinaigrette, it adds a touch.
Of course, the item that made this even more special was the zucchini flower which is very rare to find. You never have this with zucchini on a plate unless you know how to make it yourself, as we have. But to have it here was a surprise. It was a fresh flower, lightly floured and coated, and then fried to perfection. The stem was fresh. The leaves are still there. But the taste is something you do not find. This was only as you imagine, but here it was in front of you and on the halibut itself. Once more, perfection.
THE FINAL PATH TO TAKE.
Once the meals were finished with a surprise effect the table was cleared. Our waiter for the evening wanted to see what our next step would be for a sweet way to finish the meal. This, again, took consideration as we heard of the options available to us. Either way we went, it was sure to complement the excellent meal we just finished.
For this, we selected the Mousse au Chocolat in a French tart. Once more, a traditional French pastry but with a flair that made it different. It features a creamy chocolate mousse filling within a crisp, baked-in a lightly chocolate pastry shell. It is rich and creamy, topped with a spoon of freshly made whipped-style cream. It is not sweet at all. It has the taste and texture of a dish that is slightly different from the various courses taken when we first started.
The tart was an ideal way to finish the meals, especially with a finish to the glass of wine for the evening. It was just enough to end an evening event that was more than expected. It was an experience of perfection by a Chef who was more than expected at this level.
THE NEW STEP TO AMAZEMENT. LE CHÈNE.
Le Chêne is more than you can imagine. Step inside and you will not only see what you did not expect, you will learn more about true French creation and cuisine that was above what we have ever had before in New York and even in Paris.
First, our compliments to the Chef. Chef Alexia Duchene is a true work of art, skill, and wonder. The way she conceives of the meal and how it is developed is beyond comparison. It is her style and technique that make it amazing when placed on the plate with the items that complement it. Her flavors are lighter, with brighter preparations in contrast to the old-school brasserie. Her dishes are technically refined. It might be a bold meal, but a simple style that will make it stand out not only on the dish but with each bite you take.
If I only had the Foie Gras Lucullus I would have stopped. It is something I always had but not this way. Chef Duchene took it to another level that surpassed the others even in France. It was different, interesting and unique. Compliments to the Chef.
Her husband, and co-owner Ronan Duchêne Le May, oversees the operations of the establishment. From the team, to the tables, to the beverages and lengthy wine list with a Sommelier, he ensures that each guest will have more than they expect.
As for the team itself, a special thanks to our waiter, Alex, who added to our evening. His patience with our questions and requests was ideal. He knew what we might require before we even asked, His conversations at the end were also a benefit especially since he just moved from Paris to be with Le Chêne.
Having spent a few weeks in Paris a week before, a Maître d’ of a restaurant there recommended that I contact Ronan as they were friends. The Maître d’ mentioned that Le Chêne would be opening in a few days and that I should visit when it opens. He said he, himself, wished to visit it soon. He knew Chef Alexia and said she was exceptional. Well, the Maître d’ was right. Even in France, they mentioned that Le Chêne was the place to visit and have a meal like never before. Now, that is a compliment in itself.
It is an experience waiting to happen for you. The portions are typical of France. The prices are to be expected here for the quality you will have. Make a reservation and prepare to step into a place that is more than the Paris and French cuisine that you can find even in Paris. Le Chêne will show you to a place you can only dream of. But it is here in New York.
Merci à Le Chêne….Merci.
Location:
Le Chêne
76 Carmine Street, New York, New York 10014
Phone: 347-715-8155
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Ron Rossi is a New York native, marketing director, and self-styled “Jaded Traveler” who has spent a career crossing borders — both professionally and culinarily. Having lived and worked across Asia, Europe, Africa, and South America, Ron has eaten his way through nearly 100 countries on six continents, always with the same philosophy: the best food belongs to the people, not the guidebooks. He gravitates toward mid-range, budget, and street food — the kind of meal a local nurse, teacher, or taxi driver would actually eat — and believes that a country’s character is most honestly revealed not in its fine dining rooms but in its markets, cart stalls, and neighborhood joints. At New York Street Food, Ron brings that same globe-spanning hunger to the five boroughs, hunting down the dishes that feed everyday New Yorkers and the stories behind the hands that make them.
