It is hot, brutally so, as I wait for my photographer to arrive. I’ve never been one to sweat attractively, but this summer has been particularly rough. Needless to say, I breathe a big sigh of relief as I see my companion making her way through the typical afterwork crowd, just north of Times Square. A surprisingly pleasant hub of Thai food has emerged here in recent years, and we are both excited to stuff ourselves with spicy Southern Thai specialties.
Welcome to SaiTong Thai in Times Square
We enter and are immediately greeted by the manager, Brian, who introduces us to Jun, the bar manager, and to Bella, the manager on duty. We are seated on the upper level and are surrounded by pretty, if not glitzy, golden decorations and sculptures. I wonder aloud if the restaurant would be offended if I compared the bamboo lamp shades to upscale IKEA. Probably, but hey, I’m not here to review the light fixtures. I’m here for the food.
The Beverage
Jun personally brings us two beverages of his choice — and my dining companion and I are flabbergasted to find that they are the very same beverages we had been eying, should we have chosen. The Famous Thai Dessert, and The Hamptons Palmer. If the former is dessert (which it most definitely is), then the latter is what you want to drink with it.
Both are sweet, but The Famous Thai Dessert is the decadent last course of a tropical vacation, while The Hamptons Palmer is the fresh breeze. Jun speaks enthusiastically about both; he’s added citric and malic acid to one, and has utilized two types of gin (one infused with green tea, the other yuzu) in the other. Both are masterpieces.
Appetizer
The appetizers and entrees arrive simultaneously, crowding the table in the best way possible. Our server is impeccable and robustly explains each dish. To start, we are served the grilled pork jowl and the lava fries. The pork jowl is begging to be wrapped up, and creates a magnificent first bite upon entry. The pork fat is slightly chewy and melts ever so slightly. The rice is sticky yet al dente. The sauce is spicy and fragrant. The dill and mint add an oomph of freshness and the lettuce leaf doesn’t even break. I don’t say anything other than “Wow,” and a few expletives, before immediately diving back in.
The lava fries aren’t anything to sneeze at either; the menu says they are served with a salted duck egg sauce, but our fries are dry. They are, however, coated with what appears to be crispy rice and possibly salted egg, and are immensely tasty with a lingering heat. I wish the fries were skinnier for added surface area; my dining companion disagrees, calling them “the perfect thickness.”
Entree
For our entrees, the chef has selected the Black Spaghetti “Pad Cha,” and Grilled Jumbo Shrimp with Tom Yum Fried Rice, the latter of which I cannot find on the menu no matter how many times I pore through its many pages. Which is fine. Both entrees are, in fact, fine. They do not, unfortunately, reflect the mastery of flavor and texture we experienced earlier.
Both my photographer and I agree that we should not have let the jumbo shrimp go uneaten for so long; by the time we finally get around to it (I blame the pork jowl for being too delicious), the shrimp has lost its crackling luster and hangs limply when I peel it. It can be said, however, that they are undoubtedly the largest shrimp I’ve ever seen. Shrimpzilla status here, people.
The tom yum inspired rice is topped with a lovely poached egg, but remains oddly bland until covered with the special seafood sauce, which is admittedly the standout of this plate. The Black Spaghetti is cooked to perfection and is pleasantly chewy, but the sauce and overall dish lack the dynamism and punchiness of the appetizers. These are not the dishes either my companion or I would have chosen, but the chips will fall where they may.
The Dessert
Dessert arrives and again, these are not items I saw on the regular menu, but perhaps they are part of a seasonal dessert menu that I am unaware of. The same knowledgeable server explains each dish to us — there is a coconut ice cream with spherified egg yolk and a cassava cake, as well as a salak shave ice. He actually Googles the fruit for us, right on his Toast handheld (the nifty device used to accept payments and place orders in many restaurants these days), and we discover that it is called memory, or snake fruit, after its scaly looking skin.
The coconut ice cream is opulent, yet pillowy, with the egg yolk spheres providing extra richness along with a healthy dose of curiosity. The cassava cake is warm and is reminiscent of the sticky rice so often served with mango, yet holds its own as a nutty, cozy element.
It is my photographer’s and my first time trying salak fruit syrup. We both get elements of sour cherry and I taste a hint of watermelon. It’s unique and not at all bad, and serves as an excellent foil for the luxurious coconut confection.
My companion notes the detrimental crunchiness of the ice, rather than having it easily flake to the pressure of a fork or spoon, and I personally have never loved the accoutrements of corn and beans. The various jellies, however, are fun and texturally delightful, if not a vast provider of flavor. I can easily imagine this being among the only refreshing dishes to consume in the hot, humid tempest of Southern Thailand.
Final Thoughts
I know I said I’m not here to review the decor…but each table has those really nice lamps that are rechargeable and adjust brightness with a simple touch. Expensive yet highly practical for a restaurant wishing to imbue mood lighting; I can’t help but be impressed. From a culinary perspective, there are a few standouts, such as the pork jowl and the lava fries. Both entrees, unfortunately, fall flat and lack the same inspiration.
The beverages and service, however, more than make up for this, as both are flawless. The attentive and caring staff, coupled with a supremely joyful appearance by the bar manager himself, make the entire experience worthwhile. Though SaiTong Thai has a solid happy hour offered tableside, I would recommend grabbing a few seats at the bar. Here, you’ll chat with Jun and help yourself to some seriously delicious bar snacks, appetizers, and beverages.
Three Best Bites
- The Famous Thai Dessert — quite literally a creamy, boozy, slurp-worthy dessert in a cup. Get two, since your friends will steal the first one.
2. The Hamptons Palmer — elegant, sweet, and refreshing, you could get truly soused on these beauties and never even realize it.
- Grilled pork jowl — perfectly cooked pork, sticky rice, spicy sauce, and verdant herbs combine to create the perfect summer mouthful. Order extra lettuce.
Bathroom Corner
There are two all-gender restrooms in the back, single stall, with plenty of toilet paper and paper towels. I am actually confounded by the presence of paper towels both in a stack of c-folds by the sink itself, as well as in one of those canisters where you pull down the handle to release the roll, but hey, we’re in New York. More is more.
Location
244 W 48th St, New York, NY 10036
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