What would a nice evening out in Manhattan be without a little rush hour traffic? And by a little, I mean a bus that is thirty minutes late and MTA train delays. Adding salt to the wound, this evening is a special event where it’s not solely my photographer and me; it is an entire table filled with people who are meant to share a communal meal, celebrating Manhattan’s only hotel rooftop garden and all the edible bounty it provides, the Conrad New York Downtown. Which, of course, means that we show up significantly tardy to a group event.
Terribly embarrassing, but everyone is lovely and hospitable and waves us in. I gape at the luxury of the hotel itself while my photographer gets a few quick shots of the open kitchen in the ATRIO Wine Bar & Restaurant. You know the feeling you get when you start a new job, or you’re the new kid at school, but got dressed in the dark and have two different shoes on? This was nothing like that, but it could have been.
Amuse Bouche at The Conrad New York Downtown: A Delightful Beginning
We’ve missed the formal entrance of the amuse bouche, and the spoons are looking a little forlorn in front of our seats, so I quickly pop the whole thing in my mouth. It’s a frozen garden gazpacho, with heirloom tomato, cucumber, and mint, all plucked straight from the rooftop garden upstairs. It’s semi-frozen and deliciously refreshing after the hustle in mid-August heat. The texture is intriguing, and I’m immediately reminded of how hungry I am.
The staff is also exceptionally efficient, asking my companion and me for preferred drinks. Neither of us is big on wine, but ATRIO also offers a lovely cocktail menu. I order a Central Manhattan, and he orders a Kentucky mule. We like both. Mine, with Angel’s Envy bourbon and a superb balance of spirit-forward and sinfully smooth, is better.
Appetizer
We’ve actually arrived so late that the appetizer course arrives just moments after we are seated. Again, with highlights from the garden, it is a deceptively simple chopped kale salad with bleu cheese, blueberry, candied ginger, and a charred peach vinaigrette. My companion and I both zero in on the combination of gorgonzola (from Murray’s, if you’re curious) and candied ginger, which creates what all those bizarre “white fruit Stiltons” wish they could be.
It has the heavy, cellar musk from the true bleu cheese, lightened with the pleasant zing and candied crunch of ginger. The kale comes from the rooftop garden and is nicely chopped and well dressed. The only thing worse than a salad whose leaves are too large and then you’re fighting an uphill battle to shove a balanced bite into your mouth is a salad that is either under-dressed (straight up lettuce, no thank you) or over-dressed (the aroma is overpowering and frankly a little obscene).
It must also be mentioned that the tablescape is filled with fresh produce from the garden. All manner of squash, long beans, cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, kale, and the like are artfully arranged along the communal dining table. We are encouraged to try the vegetables directly from the tablescape. I eat the tomatoes and they are deliciously sweet. My dining companion goes right for the Fresno peppers and notes that “they are sweet and juicy, and it’s very cool that there are just peppers on the table to eat.” Indeed, a unique dining experience!
Pasta
Now, I’ll be honest with you. I do not usually gravitate towards pasta, and thus have minimal expectations for this course. Called “Farm Pasta,” it is paccheri, parmesan, lemon, herbed ricotta, and arugula. My companion sees me cringe slightly when the plate is set down — it’s an entire mountain of arugula on a bed of the traditional large, tubed pasta. For the sake of brevity, let’s just say arugula and I have a torrid, tragic past. I take a bite. Then another. Then another.
What is happening? The only products noted to have come from the garden upstairs are the lemons and herbs used in the whipped ricotta. I should have asked for ATRIO’s produce vendor because, wow, that arugula is not terrible! Not by a long shot. It has a whisper of peppery bite, but the rest is pure, verdant sweetness that is livened up by the admittedly delicious lemony ricotta. And the paccheri is masterfully prepared — textbook al dente, with a sauce that lovingly coats the inside and out of each tube. I eat the entire bowl. My companion has noted both that “the lemon herb ricotta is the star,” and that “Katie said the arugula is good, which is a miracle,” and he’s not wrong on either point.
Entree
Erica, our wonderful (and deeply forgiving) host, had asked ahead of time if we ate beef and how we would like it prepared. My companion likes his cooked to a respectable medium rare. I, however, prefer my beef as rare as the chef is willing to prepare it, and am often disappointed with overcooked meat. The main entree is a pan-seared filet mignon, with truffle romano bean puree, a medley of roasted mushrooms, and a garden-herbed salsa made fresh from the rooftop delights. Someone at the table receives a wonderful-looking piece of seared fish instead.
I’m halfway to wondering if I should have asked for the same when I tried the first bite. It is perfectly cooked. I note wisps of steam wafting up from other plates; there’s none of that here. It is a cool red, no bleeding, a peerless sear, deftly rested…I could go on. The filet mignon is not a forgiving cut due to its relative leanness, and the chefs behind the curtain here are clearly proficient in their beef handling. The mushrooms are good if a tad unseasoned, and my photographer praises the salsa, which “pairs nicely with the steak,” and brings just enough zhuzh without being too sharp. The steak is, without a doubt, the star.
Dessert
Before dessert arrives, our ever attentive staff comes to check on us and inquire about further drinks. My dining partner requests a Peach Smash, and it is light and invigorating after the last two courses. Neither was overly heavy and was actually quite well-balanced, but the airy and icy drink is a welcome palate cleanser.
The dessert is a summer cheesecake brulé, complete with an amber brulé crisp and jalapeno mint pepper jelly (from the rooftop). The menu notes that it is a New York-style cheesecake, but I disagree — it’s much too fluffy. I prefer these types of cheesecakes, where one is not drowning in a dense and overworked filling, and the base is also surprisingly light, like a sponge cake mixed with a shortcake. I find the brulé to be a bit much for me to bite, but it is rich and deeply sweet, with a hint of butter to round out the mouthfeel. I do not really understand the pepper jelly. It is refreshing but lacks the right amount of acidity to complement the cheesecake truly.
It should be noted that my dining companion and photographer is so mesmerized by the beauty and deliciousness of said cheesecake that he forgets to take a photo and only realizes this upon finishing the dessert. (No, I won’t fire you.)
Overall Impressions
Long before the “quiet luxury” trend ensconced the New York elite, old-money hotels had leaned into this idea. Deceptively simple, sleek, with only the most luxurious of finishings and accents to remind you that you are actually far, far too poor to be hanging around here. The Conrad New York Downtown doesn’t scream out its luxury. It simply exists, knowing that its hospitality and amenities are on another level. The food is thoughtful, well-executed, and highlights the rooftop garden wherever it can. The staff is impeccable, quiet, and attentive.
This four-course dinner experience is a bookable event and is perfect for elevated dinners, small to medium-sized events, or anyone who wishes for a party that is both delicious and elegant. There’s also a new rooftop bar with generous views. Sometimes, a nice dinner and evening out at a fancy place ends up feeling overhyped or overpriced. I am happy to report that this experience was neither, and that any guest who wishes to dine here with the Conrad New York Downtown team (along with the ATRIO Wine Bar & Restaurant) will have a wonderful time.
Three Best Bites
- Central Manhattan — this is just the perfect Manhattan. All Manhattans wish they were this one. Yes, it’s $27. No, you won’t be disappointed.
2. Filet mignon — talking only about the steak here. It was sublime. Perfectly seared and seasoned, it makes me forget about my high cholesterol.
- Farm pasta — holy moly. My favorite dish here was the one with my least favorite vegetable. It was just that damn good.
Bathroom Corner
The bathrooms are actually located across from the restaurant in the hotel lobby. They are, without a doubt, luxurious. From the thick ply paper towels to the hand soap and lotion duo, everything in this bathroom costs more than my monthly rent.
FAQ: Your Burning Questions Answered
Q: Is the “rooftop garden” thing just a marketing gimmick?
A: It’s the real deal! The restaurant’s star ingredients are plucked straight from Manhattan’s only hotel rooftop garden. You can even snack on the fresh produce arranged artfully on the tables, which is a delightfully unique way to get your daily greens.
Q: What’s the one drink I should order?
A: While the Kentucky Mule is a fine choice, allow me to direct you to the Central Manhattan. It’s spirit-forward and sinfully smooth, and frankly, all other Manhattans secretly wish they were this one. Yes, it’s $27, but it’s worth it.
Q: I have a questionable history with arugula. Should I skip the pasta?
A: You absolutely should not! I, too, am an infamous arugula-avoider, but the “Farm Pasta” was so mind-blowingly good that I ate the entire mountain of it. It’s a miracle dish, and the lemony ricotta is truly the star.
Q: How was the filet mignon? I’m picky about my steak.
A: Let me put it this way: as a person who asks for their beef as rare as humanly possible, I was not disappointed. The filet was perfectly seared, cool red inside, and expertly rested. It’s a masterclass in meat-handling, no question.
Q: What’s the deal with the dessert? Is it worth it?
A: The Summer Cheesecake Brulé is definitely worth it, though its fluffy texture might surprise New York-style purists. It’s so delicious and beautiful that my photographer completely forgot to take a picture of it. Just be prepared for a slightly spicy kick from the mysterious pepper jelly.
Q: I need to know about the bathrooms. Are they as luxurious as the hotel?
A: The “Bathroom Corner” is, without a doubt, a destination in its own right. From the thick paper towels to the hand soap and lotion duo, every single thing in there costs more than my monthly rent. It’s the very definition of quiet luxury.
Want to read more of our reviews? Check out our review of Juici Patties! You can also read our post about pantry layouts and how they matter for streamlining meal preparation.
