There is a certain relief one feels as they reach a destination after many minutes of walking through bustling crowds of tourists and weary commuters alike. I will say, however, that it is not commonly felt within a ten-block radius of Times Square. It is to my great and pleasant surprise, then, that The Lotus Room is entirely in the basement — with walls painted pitch black and the stairwell illuminated by glowing candlelight. (Don’t worry, there’s also an elevator if you’re athletically uninclined, or are part of the live band that plays downstairs.) The staff is immediately gracious, and the manager and Beverage Director, Val, come to greet us. The band starts playing instrumental jazz at first, and then the lead singer starts to croon. I think we’re in for a rapturous evening.
The Drinks at The Lotus Room
Val points us in the right direction with the drink menu, which she created. We opt for her two current favorites, the Okinawa Fashion and the Flying High Again. The latter is served with a housemade cherry orange sorbet, and even though the drink itself is somewhat syrupy, I can’t help but scoop out some sorbet and swirl it in. The result is still sweet, yes, but brings a flush of acidity and bitterness that is welcome and quite pleasing.
The Okinawa Fashion is absolutely tremendous, with a tableside smoking of wood chips that lends what is perhaps the most delightful aroma to any drink I’ve ever encountered. It’s intense without being overly smoky, and lends additional complexity to a drink already brimming with surprising floral notes amid the more familiar flavors of orange, vanilla, and warming spice. It’s currently up there with my favorite drinks of all time, with nary an egg white to be found.
Starters
It’s Chef’s choice tonight, and I am so incredibly happy I ate only a salad for lunch as the most wonderful, savory scents begin to waft throughout the dining space. Our first course consists of three mini tuna toro tacos, nestled inside fried shells made of wonton wrappers. The taste is strong, the texture is full of contrast; the crunchy shell is filled with air pockets and a unique flavor reminiscent of the fried strips of dough served with duck sauce (in the best way possible). The toro is not too fatty and has a deep, rich flavor that is complemented well by the avocado cream.
Next comes the black truffle lobster dumplings, and as soon as the plate hits the table, I am overwhelmed by the unmistakable fragrance of almost-browned butter, deepened with the savory notes of soy sauce and truffle. My companion enjoys the dumplings themselves more than I do — I had a somewhat traumatic experience with lobster as a child and approach the food now with a certain degree of trepidation — but the sauce is something that lingers deliciously and that would make even a sweaty football taste good.
Service is excellent, by the way, with Mia giving rapt attention to water glasses (never a given), showering us with exuberant (but never pushy) regard, and having perfect course timing. As soon as we are down to the last lobster dumpling, the crab and shiso rangoon arrive. My photographer confesses he almost feels bad about referring to them as crab rangoon, because after one bite, it becomes clear that these bear almost no resemblance to their traditional Chinese American counterparts. The construction, firstly, demonstrates a mastery of physics, as the dumpling is so stuffed that it’s a miracle it stays together. The filling appears to be 90% crab meat, bound tenuously with the tiniest dollop of cream cheese to add a pillowy, luscious texture. The outer skin is delightfully crunchy. It’s not traditional in the least, but it is so damn good I can’t be bothered.
At this point, our first round of drinks is about finishing up. Val approaches us and asks if we’d like to try previews from her upcoming drink menu. (Who are we to deny this?) She beams and comes back with two drinks, one in the spirit of a whiskey daiquiri, the other a bourbon aperol. The daiquiri is intensely sweet and savory, with strong plum notes and an almost oceanic salinity that balances out what can only be described as mezcal-level smokiness. It’s a complex and admirable drink that is definitely for sipping, not chugging.
The bourbon aperol is a tad more approachable, and Val enthusiastically shows us the amaro that she uses for this drink, then actually prepares us two standalone servings — shoutout to the Brooklyn-based Forthave Spirits, you have a new lifelong fan. Less overtly antagonistic than Campari but with all the hearty botanicals, it is spiced and lush and full of garden greenery. Ironic, for such a brazenly red liquid.
Mains
Alright, full disclosure: this review is going more in chronological order than a strict divide between courses, so not everything here is a main course. But let’s start off on the right foot as the dan dan noodles arrive.
THIS is what I smelled earlier; it is an incredibly savory, meaty, and darkly rich aroma. The luxurious sauce is only heightened by the cured egg yolk, so soft and velvety it dissolves as I swirl everything together. This is not a dish balanced by acidity, but rather embellishes its strengths — pure umami coating each strand of thin ramen-style noodle — with a welcome addition of heat. It is warmth and comfort in the way only a large bowl of mostly carbohydrates can be. The noodles are also served with a side of miso-roasted carrots, and after one bite, I decide that I want all my carrots to be roasted with miso, served with smoked labneh and yuzu, and topped with puffy rice that puts Rice Krispies to shame.
Val comes up to us again and asks if there is anything else on the menu that sparked our intrigue; my answer is another question. “What’s your favorite dish here?” And that’s how we end up with a plate of steamy, pillowy bao buns stuffed with duck confit. A regal take on Peking duck, this dish perfectly marries the expert technique of confit duck with the Asian sensibility of making finger food out of almost anything. It’s fatty, it’s soft, it’s plush. I would sleep on a bed of these bao.
As if we haven’t been plied with food and drink from the moment we entered, one more main dish makes its way to our table. Another preview from the Chef’s upcoming menu is a pork belly carbonara. The pork belly is cooked similarly to hong shao rou, or Chinese braised pork. It’s sticky and immensely satisfying when paired with a classic carbonara in place of the traditional guanciale. The udon noodles are soft and chewy with just the right amount of bounce to them. The sauce, while perhaps lacking some salinity, is nonetheless a perfect emulsion of cheese, egg, and pasta water. My companion describes the dish as a hidden tiger; the flavor and tension is there, just waiting for the spark of salt to let its potential leap off the plate.
Naturally, it is as we’re stuffing our faces with duck that Chef John arrives. I hastily wipe my hands on a napkin and try not to embarrass myself, but my companion easily fills in the gap by telling him how much we are enjoying the meal. We discover he and Val are both from the Baltimore area (which explains the crab to cream cheese ratio in those rangoon!) and that this is their third restaurant endeavor together. They both can’t wait for us to experience their speakeasy-style bar next door, Confessional. We promise to save room for the crab bao.
Dessert
“Cake was NOT cake. In fact, it was a crepe,” notes my companion in his eternal wisdom. Technically, it was a cake made up of alternating layers of crepe and matcha creme, topped with popping lychee boba and matcha powder. The crepes are butterfly wing thin, the matcha creme is fluffy without being braindead, and the popping boba is plain, good fun. A fantastic way to end a remarkable meal. Until, of course, Val ushers us next door…
Confessional
…To a two-hundred-year-old genuine confessional booth, where she doesn’t open the door until I give a confession. No, you don’t get to hear it.
Once inside, the vibe is completely different from The Lotus Room, despite them sharing a kitchen. The wallpaper is soft, the lighting is moody and gothic, and the atmosphere is relaxed and sensual. There is a completely different menu of both drinks and snacks. I don’t hesitate for a second before ordering the crab bao buns.
The drinks here are on theme, with my photographer ordering one called Act of Contrition, and I go with Flagellate’s Choice. I ordered mine because it has egg white. It is puffy and fluffy and so inviting, and there are some other fun, citrusy things happening with the vodka if one is paying more attention. It is literally set aflame upon receipt, with a hazy aroma of cinnamon brightened with citrus. It’s a classic pairing, and he notes that it’s quite drinkable, “even when full.” Which we are.
But not too full for the crab bao buns, which arrive in all their glory topped with crushed chips and tasting, my companion says, “just like Baltimore.” (As a graduate of Loyola University, he and Old Bay go way back.) At this point, I’m entirely stuffed and only eat about half of my bao and happily relinquish it to him, where it disappears faster than flash paper.
Speaking of, the final drink of the night is aptly named The Confessional, and is a reflection of the confession one gives in the entry booth. You burn the penance flash paper attached to the drink in the small chalice served alongside it, and it makes for a very entertaining, yet very food-safe, way to light more stuff on fire. The drink is sweet, bitter, and bright, made with the same Forthave amaro from earlier. Do I remember my penance? No, I don’t think I do.
Confessional, however, is anything but forgettable.
Final Thoughts
A sparkling gem sandwiched between Rockefeller Plaza, the Garment District, and the crazy commuter trail of finance and business high rises, The Lotus Room stands out for its sublime hospitality and equally exceptional food and drink. Creating a speakeasy-style bar with a completely different theme can feel unintuitive, but here it allows the creators room to explore different palates, aesthetically and gastronomically.
I do not hesitate to recommend either for a night of live music, great service, and even better food and spirits. You can truly taste the excitement and passion that both Chef John and Beverage Director Val bring to every dish, every drop, and every idea. I look forward to dining with them again.
Three Best Bites
3. Flying High Again — maybe I’m just a sucker for fun beverage garnishes, but the glittering cherry and orange sorbet make this drink extra special. It also tastes really good.
2. Crab and Shiso Rangoon — even I feel weird calling this masterpiece of comfort and deliciousness a rangoon. May it elevate all other rangoons, now and forever, amen.
- Okinawa Fashion — call me crazy, but that smoked wood at the top of the nose for the first sip of this drink blew me away. Imagine burning a candle through a velvety dark, twilight forest that may or may not be enchanted.
Bathroom Corner
The all-gender bathrooms are shared between The Lotus Room and Confessional (sorry if that ruins the magic), and both of them are pretty nice. Paper towels and hand dryers, no shortage of toilet paper, a big sink, and a toilet with good water pressure. What more can a girl in New York ask for?
