On October 20th, we were invited to a special event held at the Consul General of Japan Residence here in New York City. It was an invitation-only event with a select group of individuals that were invited to learn and participate. This was a jacket and tie event for some of us attending. It was not a large group. We were prepared to experience something different and that most normally do not get invited. So we went.
We knew there was a meeting and a presentation. After that we were to be invited upstairs (this is an old mansion) where we would have conversations over items that included fresh sushi, cocktails, sake and fruits. This was typical of what you would find if you were in Japan at a special event. But to have it here in New York City was extra special.
We took our seat, which had been reserved, and we waited for the event to start. There was a brief introduction. The event was entitled: “Tottori”: The Food Paradise of Japan Comes to New York. That was a bold title for an area most people in New York, and the US, do not even know exists in Japan, except for one location known as Tokyo. This was to be a special event tonight.
Our Meeting with the Governor of Tottori
Next we were introduced to the Governor of Tottori Prefecture, Mr. Shinji Hirai. He was the leader of the region and gave an excellent talk of the area, the culture, the people and the food. He spoke highly of the wonders of Tottori and why people should visit.
He then introduced the Ambassador and Consul General of Japan, Mr. Mikio Mori. This is an honor to meet him. This is very special in a gathering of just several individuals invited to this evening. Mr. Mori spoke to us in a clear voice, highlighting the region of Tottori and the benefits of the region not only to Japan, but to all visitors who might visit only one location in Japan when there are many more to explore. He covers many topics, but did focus on the evening. Also, being a close school friend of Governor Hirai, it was wonderful to learn how two friends came together to speak.
Once the Ambassador was finished the next speaker was the discussion of the food and sake of Tottori. This was extensive, but gave enough information to learn more than if you just went into a Japanese restaurant. This was about the area and what to expect there if you went.
The speaker was Sakeman Blue. Dressed in proper attire, he taught us about sake and its creation. Sakeman Blue is a member of “Sakeman”, which here in the US is Kuramoto US. It is a craft-sake importer based out of Los Angeles and New York. It is one of the top sake importers in the US, and handles sake that is imported from Tottori. They also help spread Japanese culture through their participation in Judo here in the US.
Meeting the Sushi Chef
Next we met the representative from the Tourist and Exchange Bureau, Ms. Azumi Mashimo. She gave us an excellent discussion on Tottori, their history, their culture, the people, and the food. It was an excellent way to start and teach us what we did not know about Tottori, and what we could do to help others learn.
Finally, we had some important introductions and ones we had all been waiting for. We were to meet the Sushi Chef and the Mixologist!
First, was our Sushi Chef, Shinchi Inoue, a Michelin-starred Chef who has three Michelin-starred restaurants here in New York. Tonight he was to create sushi just for us. Next, we met Takahiro Okada, a Mixologist, who has sold the most Sake in New York for the last few years. His style and manner make him as unique as the cocktail he creates.
The final part of this first discussion was a toast of Sake by the Ambassador. As we say in Japan: “KANPAI”.
TOTTORI, JAPAN – AN EXPERIENCE ON MANY LEVELS.
As we walked up the steps we talked to each other about the meeting and what we learned. We discussed everything in detail as we went up to the second floor. Once there we had a world awaiting us when it came to food, sake, culture and more. And, as is also typical in Japan, you cover most bases at the same time. Culture and history and business with each bite you take and sip you have of sake.
But, let’s focus on tourism first…
Japan is a unique country like many others we know of. It is not just the big cities we know of like Tokyo or Kyoto. Those are historic places that if you travel to Japan you will visit. It is also more than just this. There are regions, and towns, and mountains and sea. There are lakes and areas we might go to and that we never imagined. Japan is history, culture, arts, people and food. And, one special item that is unique to Japan, and that many of us know of, is sake. That is special and unique to a country, a culture and a people.
And it comes throughout Japan. But one special place is a region where it has been produced for centuries. A place filled with its own history, culture, people and ways of life and living. And to be invited to a special evening at the Japan General Consulate Residence in New York was an honor and privilege. We not only learned a great deal. We met many individuals that represented the country, the region and the way of life.
Welcome to that special region of TOTTORI.
It is a place to visit, imagine, wonder and to see. You can learn a great deal more as you experience a new level of travel you never thought possible. Yet, it is all there waiting for you if you decide to explore it for yourself.
TOTTORI – A SPECIAL PLACE.
Japan is a unique country to visit. Yes, we all know about a Japanese restaurant near where we live. That is typical for us today. We go inside and order what we believe is good. Yet, if you have ever visited Japan you can learn, and try, even more. Having lived in Japan for a number of years, I did see things I never expected, and learned more than I understood.
Tottori is a coastal region in the southern part of Honshu, which is Japan’s main island. Tottori is the capital, and the largest city. The prefecture (as it is called) is an agricultural area producing rice, fruit (especially the famous pears), and dairy products, It is also known for the seafood which is plentiful there. This includes crabs, oysters, and shrimp. There is also tuna, salmon, mackerel and more.
To the east are the famous Tottori Sand Dunes, the largest sand hills in all of Japan. This is a reason to visit and spend time there. You can spend days walking in the area and explore the hills, the mountains and the dunes that are all available to you. There is even the nearby Sand Museum which displays elaborate sand sculptures. Of course, in the city itself are the wonderful cherry trees of Kyusho Park that bloom in the Spring for the Cherry Blossom Festival. Naturally, if you climb up Mt. Kyusho, there is a panoramic view over the city.
Tottori offers everything you can see and explore no matter what season you are there.
SPRING CHERRY BLOSSOMS.
Spring is one of Japan’s most stunning seasons. And in Tottori you can admire beautiful cherry blossoms in all their glory. Home to nearly 4,000 cherry trees, Utsubuki Park in Kurayoshi is a prime destination for hanami. The park bursts to life with color when the trees bloom all around the pond and charming red bridge. At night, traditional lanterns light up creating an ethereal scene of wonder.
SUMMER ON MT. DAISEN.
Climbing Mt. Daisen in the summer gives you the experience of “glamping”. This is a blend of the words “glamorous” and “camping”. Go and explore at your own pace. You can see what you never thought possible. You can climb to the top and see the entire city and more. It is all there for you. Naturally, there are places to stay, and to eat, when you take the climb. This is for you to do in one day or a few days.
STUNNING FALL FOLIAGE.
The transformation of mountain forests into a tapestry of red, orange, and gold announces the return of Tottori’s intensely beautiful autumn. The hiking trails of Oshika Gorge offer breathtaking views year-round but are particularly striking when flame-kissed leaves surround its rushing waterfalls and extraordinary rock formations. It is a time of the year I would always travel through Japan. The fall colored leaves, the shrines, the markets, the people, and the food all seemed to change for the season.
Another ideal spot to enjoy during the fall is Daisenji Temple, a 1000-year-old Buddhist complex sheltered in the forest on the sacred Mt. Daisen. Within the historical architecture there are mighty gates, stone paths, and riverbeds. It has an air of sacred tranquility.
A WINTER PARADISE.
Tottori and the region is a winter paradise for those who want to experience the sports and culture of the area. Mt. Hyonosen is one of Japan’s major ski and snowboard locations. It has sports enthusiasts from all over the world visiting to enjoy. There is always something to do when you are there.
JAPAN CRAFTS AND CREATIVITY.
Japan is famous for the arts and crafts it has created over time. Besides everyday items, there is more that has been developed in various ways.
One is the special Japanese dolls that have been placed in homes that have a special meaning and style. Here, inTottori, the Hakota Doll Workshop offers the chance to watch how Hakota dolls are made, view displays, purchase their own dolls and even try out face-painting the dolls themselves. The workshop also produces papier-mâché items, and even offers classes. Hakota dolls are believed to have been made by Jihe Bingoya, a peddler during the Temmei Era (1781-1789). Known as ‘Hako-san’, the dolls are familiar to children and serve as a good luck charm . I even have one.
MUSEUMS TO LEARN.
The Kurayoshi Museum is one of several museums to visit when in Tottori. It covers most of the history of the region, and displays items, icons, and art works. Even the museum is a work of art. Inside you will find works by various artists and periods. These include works by Kanji Maeta, Tatehiko Suga, Hiromichi Osaka and other artists associated with Tottori Prefecture, as well as archaeological artifacts excavated from the Kofun period with Nationally Designated Important Cultural Properties among them. The adjacent Museum of History and Folklore exhibits materials from the Meiji and Taisho eras, including farming tools and Kurayoshi Kasuri.
HOT SPRINGS. SUMMER. FALL. WINTER.
Year round in Tottori it is time for the Hot Springs. It does not matter the time of the year. It does not matter what the weather and day might be. It is always time to visit an historic hot spring and step in. The water is special and brilliant. It does not matter if the spring is large or small. It does not matter how many might be there. You always have your space and the experience to venture in and experience what it is like to be there.
The hot water welling up from the ground near the Tottori government buildings supplies many hot spring facilities located within a five minute walk from Tottori Station. Even though surrounded by modern buildings, one step into this hot spring district will transport you into a different and beautiful world. The four natural public baths in this area are frequented by businessmen and tourists alike on a daily basis creating a highly relaxed and welcoming atmosphere. But step a bit further and you will see that the people who live in the area know what is the best for them. It is all very close and different. And it is something to try at least once compared to others that exist around the world. Tottori has a spring to enjoy and wonder why you have not done this before.
DRINK. EAT. BE MERRY.
Now, the portion of the evening we all waited for. The food, the sake, the cocktails.
Japan is known for their culinary delight. It is different from most, even when it seems similar to others.Each region is different even in Japan. The seasoning, the style, the culture, the people, the region. It changes depending on where you are at the time. What makes Tottori very special is the fact that it is all fresh. Whether you have fresh seafood, rice, vegetables, or fruit. Even if you have sake for which it is known. It is all different even within the area a few blocks apart.
Sake comes first. Start with a sip of sake. This is special no matter where you are. It all follows the same tradition, but each producer makes it a bit different than each other. Brewed using mineral-rich water from the snow a top Tottori’s tallest peaks and a wide variety of rice including some only grown in Tottori, the sake produced in this region has a taste of its own. Amongst the many outstanding local sake to try, Kumezakura brewed in the foothills of Mt. Daisen, Hiokizakura made from the previously extinct Gouriki brewer’s rice, and Benten Musume served piping hot are not to be missed.
For this portion of the evening we went to the Sake table and looked at a variety of sakes that were available to try. Sake is normally given in small portions. This is not mixed with other ingredients or in large portions. It is small and simplified. It is to be tasted and enjoyed. Besides our servers we met with the Sakeman Blue who did discuss each sake presented to us. We could try and sample each. It is a wonderful way to try something we might not have tried before.
Once you have some sake, you are ready for a cocktail or two. Wine was offered, but this evening you wanted to try one of the two cocktails made by the mixologist, Takahiro Okada. Having sold the most sake in the US, he does have a way of knowing what you might like to try. And sake is not the only thing to select. Tonight we had a choice of Tottori Iced Tea. Using Kurayoshi Whiskey, he combines this with a Pear Tea mix and Angostura Bitters. Mixed well and over ice you would imagine it was only iced tea. But it is not. The smooth whiskey comes through with each sip you take. It was ideal.
He also made a Dune Serenity to try. This included a combination of Hiokizakura Junmail Ginjo Goriki (a rare sake from the region), Cucumber Juice, Pear Ginger syrup and Wasabi oil. That was the difference, Instead of using bitters it provided an extra spice and taste to this glass. Served over ice it was a nice taste with the fresh sushi we had.
SEAFOOD PERFECTION.
Once you have some sake then it is time to eat. And what better place to start is with fresh seafood. Here in Tottori they are known for a variety to select from. First, of course for some of us, is crab. But not just any crab. The adult male snow crab is known as Matsuba-gani and is Tottori’s quintessential winter food, packed with meat and delicate flavor. The Matsuba crab is caught from early November into March in the Sea of Japan’s high winter waves. In fact, the 4th Saturday in November is known as ‘Matsuba Crab Day’ and holds an annual event at the docks of Tottori City and Iwami-cho. The chewy meat inside the great shells of this crab is outstanding boiled or grilled. The rich taste inside is a perfect accompaniment to sake or rice.
Rock Oysters is also a delicacy that we have come to know. Caught as-is by free diving, the oysters can reach lengths of up to 20 cm and weights of up to 1 kg. Called ‘the milk of the sea’, these oysters are excellent eaten raw with a squeeze of fresh lemon. The season for the rock oyster is from early summer through August and the Obon holiday period. This hearty morsel is the ultimate summer taste of Tottori.
Next is the Pacific Bluefin Tuna, which is the king of the sea. The tuna catch hauled in at the port of Sakaiminato has been Japan’s greatest tuna every year. A huge load is brought to the city from the adjacent seas between June and August. Sakaiminato tuna is particularly to be enjoyed for its fresh, smooth texture and rich flavor. Local restaurants offer the obligatory sashimi as well as maguro ramen, fresh entrails, and other cuisine using every bit of the tuna to enjoy.
Of course there is also a variety of fresh shrimp, salmon, mackerel and more. It is all caught fresh and eaten in various ways. From sashimi and sushi to those boiled and placed in ramen or udon, or slightly grilled to provide a rich, cooked taste that everyone can enjoy.
For us tonight, Chef IInoue was creating both Salmon and Mackerel Sushi variations. Each was placed on special rice that was brought in from Tottori. There was a small amount of wasabi placed on the rice before you placed the fish. Once on, a very light sampling of soy sauce was brushed on. It is very typical Japanese in creation and tasting. Having lived in Japan for many years it was as I would expect. Perfection.
We also had a selection of fresh ramen combined with seafood, salads, vegetables and even a variety of thin sliced beef that is used in Japan. There were oysters and shrimp as well. This variety of products added to the combinations of food samples you would normally have when in Tottori.
Of note, while eating in Tottori, you can also visit the markets to see where people and restaurants buy the seafood and other ingredients. That alone is an experience. You can climb a mountain. You can walk on a sand dune. But to visit the markets is an experience that can prove to be different for all concerned.
This is the specialist’s marketplace where local fish and seafood brokers come together to buy and sell all manner of marine products at low prices. Just watching the lively trading and hearing the thunderous voices of the sellers is an experience in itself. With no middleman, this is a great chance to buy a multitude of varieties cheaply and fresh. One of the best steps to take after being at the market is to go to a local restaurant nearby and have something to eat. This is as fresh as it comes.
DESSERT AWAITS.
Tottori is the prefecture for Asian pears. Known as NASHI in Japanese to many outside of Japan it seems to be a combination of a pear and an apple. The taste might be there, but the flavor is not. This is different. The fruit is known for its pale yellow, almost translucent, skin, and a delicate sweetness and juiciness. The secret to the Asian pear’s flavor is the diligent efforts of the master growers.
The Nijisseiki nashi has been cultivated for over a hundred years. Most of these are sold domestically around the Kansai area, with around 10% of the total product exported to countries such as Taiwan, Hong Kong, and even here in the US in a Japanese food store. If you have it here it is truly fresh.
For this evening other fruits were available to enjoy, Again, all fresh and a good selection.
AN EVENING YOU CANNOT FORGET.
We spent a great amount of time learning, eating and talking. You met new food, new drinks and new people from Japan and more. Having the Ambassador and the Governor was an honor and experience. A Michelin-Star Chef and a well known Mixologist were perfect. In all ways it made us learn and think.
And thinking was important. Not only from each other, but from the region. Tottori has much to offer us in many ways. The culture, the people and the food are something that can provide us with a new experience and understanding.
A PLACE YOU MUST VISIT…TOTTORI.
Having lived in Japan for several years, I worked there for a Japanese based company as well. We also traveled around the country and the cities both large and small. We did visit the museums, the markets, the restaurants, the schools and the shops. We learned about their culture and their regions. We could ask questions and receive answers. We could also be taught what life is like there from their perspective, not just from a tour we take out of the US.
The people of Tottori have a lot to say to us. They can show you what works and what does not. They can show us how there is a difference when you travel between Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka and then to Tottori. It is the same but it is very different. They respect each other, but will show where there are changes we all should know and understand.
The best way to connect with Tottori is to contact their website and tourist office.
That information is:
www.tottori-tour.jp/en/
You can also contact a travel agent who can provide you the information directly and plan a trip. As my wife is a travel agent who has lived in Japan for all those years, she does know where to go, what to see, and how to get there. We even know the names of some special restaurants we always eat in when we go back to Japan. It does help.
Tottori is a wonderful area to visit. It is a good way to see something new and experience something you might always remember.
Of course, the best thing is what you can eat and drink. Sushi and a glass of sake is the right way to sit and think at the end of the day when you are there….or even home here in New York.As they say in Japan…
Domo arigato gozaimasu!
(Thank you very much!)
Location:
Tottori, Japan
Japan National Tourist Office / New York
250 Park Avenue, Suite 1900
New York, New York 10177
Phone: +1 212-757-5640
Phone (Japan): +81 – 0857-26-7619
“The Jaded Traveler”. Ron Rossi was born and raised in New York. A globalist at heart, Ron is a marketing director by trade, and has lived and worked around the world including Asia, Europe, Africa, and South America. Food is one of the best ways to learn about a country, a people and a culture. So, Ron is always looking for the best in mid-range to budget and street food. He is always on the hunt for a good meal anyone can afford. It is the food of the average citizen that excites him. And with having visited close to 100 countries on 6 continents so far, there have been some pretty good meals.
