I have never eaten at an establishment — restaurant, bar, or otherwise — where there is a dedicated elevator with dedicated security for said elevator, in order for you to enter. As my photographer and I step into the cool, marbled lobby and watch as the aforementioned security scans his card and presses floor 25, I can’t help but feel a little gleeful exclusivity. Once upstairs at Elsie Rooftop & Penthouse (check them out on Instagram), we are surrounded by a large rooftop space in the early evening light, bright and not yet golden.
Patrons are seated in spaces either fully outdoors or with full window views and deep, squashy couches. We are informed that there will be salsa dancing starting at 7:30 PM. Aside from the loud music that appears to be a prerequisite to any bar in Manhattan, it’s actually hard to tell that we are above Times Square. The fake garden landscape is almost dreamy, and the windows provide insulation from the constant noise outside and below.
The Drinks at Elsie Rooftop & Penthouse
After a few moments of confusion, we are informed that the Penthouse is not open. The rooftop bar has the only operating kitchen at this time, and even the staff cannot pinpoint exact dates for the mysterious Penthouse’s hours of operation. After doing some online sleuthing, I discovered that the Penthouse is a large gathering space for private events.
Nonetheless, the service is friendly and very attentive as we place our orders. My partner in crime requests the Den Mule, and I the Versailles. I’m always a fan of Angel’s Envy bourbon, and my drink does not disappoint — it is crisp, autumnal from the rosemary, and just sweet enough. Angel’s Envy lends the drink notes of baking spice and heaps of vanilla aroma, but is balanced by the spice and earthiness of ginger. My companion enjoys the “lemon-ness,” if that is a word. Do I understand the intent behind the drink’s nomenclature? No. Do I need to, in order to enjoy the drink itself? Also no.
My photographer’s drink smells smoky. Not in a burning house way, but like a merrily burning hearth on a starry campfire night. I find it a bit hard to get around the smoky scotch, which is unfortunately reminiscent of burned rubber, but my partner insists that he likes it (“It grew on me!”) — once he stops inhaling before taking a sip. I am happy to let him enjoy.
Snacks
All the food at Elsie Rooftop is served snack and appetizer-style, with small bites to encourage sharing. We decide on the following:
Traditional guacamole, served with tricolor chips. The guacamole is delicious and fresh with good texture, and my dining companion agrees, noting that “while classic, if it works, it works.” The chips, however, are so mediocre that I won’t indulge in any further discussion.
Tuna poke mini tacos, which are also served in mini tricolor corn tortilla shells. The shells are adorable, and the taco stands are actually pieces of cucumber cut precisely to hold the shells upright. It’s a very cute (and tasty) way to enjoy these snack-sized tacos, filled with ahi tuna, a spicy aioli, and ponzu. There is a verdant green sauce artfully swirled around the tacos, and I wish it had been drizzled over the tacos themselves, since the latter are not exactly the right shape to scoop up a shallow amount of sauce on a flat surface. I resign myself to eating this sauce — bright, garlicky, and herbaceous — with the cucumber taco stands. My photographer has no such qualms and thoroughly enjoys the tacos with or without the sauce, writing that “the flavors all converge like a wave,” so there is that.
Burrata with heirloom tomatoes, curiously on a very dark plate (all the servingware is curiously chosen, if I’m really being picky), where the tomatoes appear almost hidden. Despite its somewhat underwhelming appearance, the burrata is quite decadent, with a full-fat mouthfeel that leaves a rich, lingering sweetness on the tongue. The herb oil and perfectly ripe tomatoes provide a decidedly necessary contrast.
Thai chicken skewers that are somehow served with a bowl full of that mysteriously delightful green sauce that was so frugally swirled on the mini taco plate. The skewers are frankly nothing spectacular; some of the smaller pieces are a bit dry. But a dunk in the green sauce perks everything up, adding salinity and juiciness to any bite that might be overcooked. Here, my dining companion agrees — “everyone knows a good sauce makes everything better.” (The best sauce, of course, being gravy.)
More Drinks, Because Dessert is Overrated
Neither my dining companion nor I are in the mood for a true dessert as we finish the array of appetizers. The servers, instead, are more than happy to oblige us with a couple of extra drinks, and we whittle away the minutes as golden hour approaches, bathing the rooftop with an ethereal glow. The low couches suddenly feel more appropriate, and the twinkly lights around us add to the ambiance. It becomes clear that this rooftop shines more after the sun goes down.
My photographer orders the Peach & Proper, which is almost sweet enough to be dessert. Bursting with fresh, juicy peach flavor and balanced with bracing lemon, the bourbon manages to hold its own with a healthy caramel undertone. It is my companion’s favorite drink of the night and is the perfect way to end a rooftop bar meal.
I ordered the Smoked Old Fashion. True to its name, it arrives with a lid that, when removed, reveals a graceful plume of smoke. The drink is served neat with ice on the side, and I add three small ice cubes. Upon first sip, it is strong, almost unpleasantly so, but with the slight dilution, more of the flavors open up, and the spicy finish of the bourbon becomes elegantly intertwined with the floral, honeyed notes of Earl Grey tea.
Final Thoughts on Elsie Rooftop
Elsie Rooftop is first and foremost a rooftop bar. I would not recommend most of the food unless you’re terribly hungry and are willing to spend Times Square prices on snack-sized morsels. But if you’re in the mood for a really lovely view, a gorgeous chandelier, and excellent cocktails, then this is a great place to meet someone after work for drinks and perhaps even a dance or two. FYI, the dancing did not start at 7:30 PM. (This is Manhattan, for goodness’ sake. Being late will never go out of fashion.)
Three Best Bites / Sips
- The Burrata has a surprisingly creamy and complex interior for such an unexciting display.
2. The Peach & Proper, a perfect dessert cocktail and basically a bowl of fruit, so it’s healthy, right?
- The Versailles, because spicy ginger and the toasty, stone fruit notes of Angel’s Envy are made for each other.
Bathroom Corner
My photographer and I must have used different bathrooms. I went to the handicapped room, which was spacious and had all the essentials. The other room, according to my companion, felt like Harry Potter’s closet under the stairs.
