New York is a singular force of reckoning in late summer – eternally humid and smelly, occasionally thundering without bringing rain, but generally languishing in torpidity. This fact remains abundantly clear as we step out on Saturday evening. Part of me wants to turn right back around to my apartment and to the blessed chill of the air conditioner. But the promise and thrill of a new adventure sharpens our steps and we arrive…early?
Is this a glitch in the Matrix or a malfunction of the trains? Is this the manifestation of me trying desperately to be an all-around better human being? No matter. We step inside (my photographer takes his excellent photos of the facade) and are immediately seated. The ambiance is new-feeling and very blue, courtesy of the lights that match Nomad Girl’s turquoise aesthetic, with an impressive bar and quieter tables in the back. We, however, are seated in the front half of the restaurant.
Beverages at Nomad Girl
Patrick is our waiter for the evening and is dazzlingly well-informed. He gets us started with a round of cocktails – the Nomad Girl True Blue for me, and the house Old Fashioned for my companion. The latter, I find good but a tad watery (my companion thinks the opposite and notes its bourbon-forward flavor); the introduction of smoked rosemary and lavender is unusual but pairs well.
The former is not blue at all but rather purple like the inside of a blueberry, and is the best drink of the night. Fruity, refreshing, and sweet but not cloying, my companion is impressed as well and notes the “great bitter finish.”
We order a second round of drinks sometime between the pasta and the main courses. I get something with jalapeño and regret it almost immediately (I can tolerate spice in food but not in drinks, it appears). My dining companion orders an appletini and it arrives in its fluorescent green-yellow glory with no complaints.
Our last beverage comes with dessert and is a double shot of espresso and Bailey’s, rimmed with Nutella and turbinado sugar. It is delicious and perfect for dessert and I do not recommend it for anyone who cannot handle large amounts of alcohol mixed with large quantities of caffeine.
The Antipasti
I zero in on the prosciutto e mozzarella, with 24-month aged prosciutto and buffalo mozzarella, and ask Patrick for a second antipasti recommendation after hearing the eggplant terrine is out of stock. He offers the bacalao croquettes, which are not on the online menu but arrive with saffron aioli.
The antipasti also arrives with bread that has been toasted and drizzled with olive oil. Although I prefer the oil and/or herbs on the side for proper dipping, the bread is fine. Nothing spectacular, but I do see an opportunity for greatness and slather my brea
d with the prosciutto and mozzarella (my companion sees this and wisely follows, later noting that the combined open-faced miniature sandwiches we create are infinitely more than the sum of their parts).
It is excellent. The aged prosciutto is soft, and beautifully paper thin, with huge sections of velvety fat to complement the huge umami flavor of the meat. The buffalo mozzarella is spreadable, creamier than the cow’s milk version, and almost custardy in texture. It is served with micro basil which adds the necessary herbaceous aroma and color to the plate.
The croquettes are surprisingly good as well, with the bacalao having an excellent texture (soft but not mushy) and then being fried to golden brown perfection. The star of the show here is the saffron aioli, which sets off the croquette’s oceanic salinity in a wonderful, acidic, aromatic fashion.
The Pasta
We decide on the truffle ravioli and the trofie pesto e burrata to share, and both arrive and are equally impressive. I start with the trofie, a short twisted little pasta hailing from Northern Italy, whose nooks and crannies happen to be perfect for catching the lovely pesto.
The basil’s natural sweetness shines through, balancing the heavier flavors of garlic and cheese. Halved cherry tomatoes peek out and offer refreshing bursts of more sweetness and acidity. The full burrata ball, once opened, coats each twirl of pasta with fresh, creamy flavor that only deepens the savory effect of the original pesto. When I finally relinquish it to my companion, he too raves about the silky, decadent sauce, which “begs to be eaten.”
The truffle ravioli is a master class in texture. The ricotta is pillowy, the truffle offers meatiness and substance, and the ravioli itself is textbook al dente. It comes with a light butter sauce and is garnished with thyme, adding both warmth and depth to the earthiness.
The truffle flavor is prominent but not overpowering, thanks to the plethora of other textures and flavors demanding attention. The only note I have is that the filling is somewhat lukewarm.
The Mains
We debate briefly between the sesame-crusted tuna and the branzino, and even though I win (branzino), I feel terrible after my eating companion almost chokes to death on a fish bone.
My main offense with the tuna is that it came with a salad, and I am aggressively anti-salad. Other than the bony spine, the branzino is perfect. Served with a white wine butter sauce, very simple, and very well executed.
Not undersalted, with each layer of fish cooked magnificently to highlight the fresh, clean lines of the flesh and the fattier sides next to the skin. It arrives with mashed potatoes (“insanely buttery,” writes my companion) and truly delightful side vegetables. Carrots, cauliflower, squash, and broccoli that are deeply roasted and well seasoned, they are sublimely sturdy against the tender fish.
The Short Rib
The short rib is favored by my companion, who comments on the “extremely tender” texture and the sauce on top, which is strongly flavored with red wine and remains exceptionally meaty. I find the short rib to be a little lean for my taste, but my taste does skew towards extremely fatty, so I am confident that this dish will appease most diners.
It comes on a bed of cheesy polenta, which I found extremely dry and generally unappealing next to the already-somewhat-dry short rib. Not my favorite of the night, but my companion has far fewer complaints.
We also get a side of truffle fries, which come with parmesan cheese and ketchup. The fries are cut classic Belgian style, thicker than shoestring but thinner than steak fries, and are beautifully crispy. The truffle flavor, however, is disappointing after the marvelous ravioli; it is truffle oil and has a very strong, almost chemical aftertaste that even the ketchup cannot completely disguise.
Dessert
I desperately want the crème brûlée but am so completely stuffed that I decide I cannot, in good faith of my stomach capacity, eat something that rich. We order the Nutella piadina instead, which arrives piping hot and smelling deliciously toasty.
My companion calls it “a Nutella quesadilla,” and that is a fair assessment. It feels distinctly Italian, from the panini press lines to the texture of the piadina itself – pleasantly chewy and neither airy nor dense, but a very tasty flatbread. And if you like Nutella, then this is a perfect way to conclude a meal.
Final Thoughts
My companion and I discuss relative merits as the meal draws to a close. We both agree that the service is first-rate for both wait staff and general bussing. The manager greets us warmly and tells us about a promotion wherein you bring a new friend and you’ll get a second round of drinks on the house (strangely, this is for you only, not for your friend).
The food is above average but only a few dishes stood out as truly good, and all of it is fairly expensive. However, we are in NoMad, an area filled with trendy, contemporary bars and lounges and general affluence, so the prices are not unusual for this location. Just a few blocks north is Korea Town, which offers completely different cuisine at a vastly different price point, so you’ve got options. But Nomad Girl has a few classic dishes and drinks that are worth the return trip.
Check out their Instagram, and some more reviews on Yelp.
Three Best Bites
3. Nomad Girl True Blue cocktail – really fun, refreshing, and filled with classic citrus flavors.
2. Prosciutto e mozzarella – make the miniature sandwich and thank me later.
- Trofie pesto e burrata – fun pasta shapes + tremendous sauce + huge ball of burrata cheese = “pesto heaven,” says my companion. I must agree.
Bathroom Corner
The bathrooms are clean and unisex. Two stalls, with a shared vanity and all the regular amenities. Don’t be alarmed.
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